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Centre Hub

The first assembly job was the Seesaw onto the Main Rotor Hub, the Seesaw is turned 90 deg to get it onto the Rotor Hub. The Bearings are inserted into the Seesaw and the whole thing is secured with 2 shouldered screws. Apply Threadlock to the screws.
Next the Link Balls and Bearings are secured to the Mixing Levers, there are of course 2 of these to prepare and they are then screwed onto the Seesaw with shouldered screws.
NOTE
Make sure the Mixing Lever can be rotated freely and again use Threadlock on the screws and be mindful when using Threadlock that NONE must enter the Bearings.

Flybar
Next up is the Flybar Control Arm, secure the Link Balls and also fit the 2 Collars. Slide the Flybar through the Control Arm and Seesaw. There must be an equal amout either side of the Seesaw, 82.5mm each side. Secure the Flybar with set screws and apply Threadlock.
The Paddles are then added to the Flybar with Threadlock, again make sure the distance form the Paddle to the Flybar Control Arm are the same each side ( 70mm from the outer edge of the Flybar Control Arm to the inside edge of the Paddle ). The Paddles and Flybar Control Arm must be parallel to each other and 90 deg to the Main Rotor Hub.
NOTE
The Flybar Carrier is threaded to take 4 set screws to hold the Flybar, 2 on the top and 2 on the bottom, the kit contained 2 set screws which I fitted from the top, however I decided to fit 2 lower screws as well, these I obtained from my stock box.

Blade Holders
Secure the Link Balls to the 2 Blade Holders, called Main Rotor Pitch Housing by Thunder Tiger but I will call them Blade Holders. The Flap Damper is inserted and a smear of silicon grease was used to ease the Feathering Shaft through the Flap Damper, however make sure no grease enters the tapped hole in the end of the Feathering Shaft as this will prevent the Threadlock from working. The Blade Holders were then assembled with 2 Radial Bearings with a Thrust Bearing in between, the Thrust Bearing must be greased. Take care to fit the Thrust Bearing the correct way round as per Thunder Tiger diagram. Again use Threadlock on the screws. You will need to use an Allen Key at each end of the Feathering Shaft to lock the screws as you can't hold the shaft. The Allen Keys are part of the kit.

Main Shaft
Slide the Rotor Hub Set onto the Main Shaft, make sure the direction of the Main Shaft is correct with the recess at the bottom. A screw and 2 nuts are used to fix the Main Rotor Hub to the Main Shaft, again be sure to add Threadlock to both nuts, the second nut is locked onto the first.
Next install 2 Bearings, 1 Link ball and a Washout Link to each Flybar Control Lever. The Levers are secured to the Washout Base with shouldered screws and a small washer between the Lever and Washout Base.
There are 2 positions for the Link Balls, an inner and an outer, the outer hole is for 3D flyers and the inner for beginners.
Slide on the Washout Assembly and make sure the 2 pins of the Main Rotor Hub go through the holes of the Washout Base.Then slide in the Swashplate and attach the Washout Linkage to the inner Linkage Balls of the Swashplate.
The Main Shaft Lock Ring is slid onto the Main Shaft and secured with a set screw. The distance from the end of the Main Shaft to the Lock Ring is 70mm, add Threadlock to the set screw and secure.
NOTE
The Lock Ring only shows 1 set screw however there are 2 tapped holes so I used 2 set screws, one of which came from my spares box.

Link Rods
The Linkage Rods and Ball Links are assembled next. The manual has 1:1 diagrams of the rods so it is easy to measure up against them. The lengths are measured from one Ball Link centre to the other Ball Link centre. When all 9 rods are assembled the manual shows where they are placed on the Main Rotor System.
NOTE
The stamped T on the Ball Links should always face outwards.

Main Frame Assembly
The one piece Main Frame is secured to the Base Plate with 6 self tapping screws. Then the Skids which are also made in one piece are screwed to the Base Plate with 4 self tapping screws.
Assemble the Upper Bearing Housing together with the Bearing using 4 self tapping screws, this unit is then slid into the Main Frame and secured with 4 more self tapers, don't forget the Threadlock on the screws. At last the heli is starting to look like a heli.

Servo Plates
The Servo Mounts are attached to the frame along with the Anti-Rotation Bracket. The Body Retaining Post and Frame Spacer are added next and should be glued in place.
The Battery Tray Side Frames are secured with 4 self tapping screws, the Battery Tray is then assembled onto the Base Plate and Battery Side Frames.

Back to the Head
The One Way Bearing and Spacer come pre-assembled, add a touch of grease when the One Way Bearing Shaft is inserted. Install the Bearing into the Base Plate and slide the Main Gear Assembly into the Main Frame. The Main Shaft of the Head goes through the Upper Bearing, Main Gear Assembly and Lower Bearing. Make sure the holes of the Auto-Rotation Tail Drive Gear, the One Way Bearing Shaft and the Main Shaft line up then use a socket screw and nut to secure. Do not over tighten and add Threadlock. Push the Main Rotor Hub down and put on the Main Shaft Lock Ring under the Base Plate, use the set screw to secure it and remember to use Threadlock, there is an acess hole in the frame to enable you to tighten the set screw.
NOTE
Caution, make sure there is no play in the Main Shaft.

Tail
First part of the Tail Assembly is to put the belt through the Boom. Insert the Bearing into the Tail Housing then slide the Tail Housing unit onto the Tail Boom and secure with a self tapping screw. The Tail Rotor Shaft Set is then pushed into the Housing Unit and the Belt is pulled over the Pulley, fit the Bearing into the Housing Cover and then secure the cover with 3 self tapping screws.
Carrying on with the Pitch Control Unit, fit the 4 Bearings into the Double Joint Lever and secure it to the Tail Housing with a socket screw, make sure the Lever moves freely. The Link Ball and Bearing are fitted to the Tail Pitch Control (Lever-1), next fit the Bearing in the Tail Pitch Control ( Lever-2). Fit Control Lever-1 and 2 together with a self tapping screw with the Tail Pitch Control Set fitted betwen the 2 Bearings. This unit is then fitted to the Double Joint Lever with a socket screw.
Secure the Tail Pitch Control Link to the Bladeholder using 2 washers and a socket screw making sure the chamfer is towards the Bladeholder. Do not overtighten the screw, then fit the 2 Bearings to each Bladeholder.
Use Threadlock to the socket screw and be mindful of the direction of the Safety Washer and secure to the Tail Rotor Hub. Put the Tail Rotor Blades onto the Tail Assembly, do not overtighten the self tapping screws and make sure the Blades are fitted the correct way round.
Add the Tail Rotor Hub Set onto the Tail Rotor Shaft, make sure the set screw is placed correctly on the Shaft, add Threadlock to the set screw.
Fit the Tail Pitch Control Link to the Tail Pitch Control Set, do not overtighten the socket screw, the Linkage needs to be able to rotate freely.

Fin
The Stabilizer Fin is screwed to the Vertical Fin and then the Assembly is screwed onto the Tail Housing.

Tail Drive
Fit the Tail Drive Gear to the Tail Boom Bracket and then secure the Tail Boom Bracket Cover to the Tail Boom Bracket. Pull the Belt through the Tail Boom Bracket making sure it's kept properly aligned with the correct twist as per the manual.
Put the Belt over the Pulley and pull back the Tail Boom until there is about 5mm of play. The Boom is then secured in the Bracket with 2 socket screws and nuts, remember to use Threadlock.The manual then advises the application of CA glue in the crack at the top of the Bracket, I however did not do this.
The Rod Guides and Tail Servo Tray are added next, there is no need to fully tighten as they will need to be adjusted later. The Tal Boom can then be slid into the Main Frame, its advised to to push it in holding the Bracket rather than the Tail, secure it with 2 self tapping screws and don't forget the Threadlock. Use CA or Epoxy to glue the Tail Support Rod Ends. Fit the Tail Support Rods to the Tail Support Bracket and Chassis.

Canopy & Body
In the manual it shows 1 cut out in the canopy and 7 in the Body. I decided not to cut the vent in the Canopy or the Aperture in the body where the canopy sits.
Instead after trimming off the excess from the Canopy I applied double sided tape and attached it directly to the Body, I then used the 3 self tapping screws provided to guarantee it didn't move.
NOTE
Some people call the Canopy the Windscreen and the Body the Canopy. This can result in confusion, if you think of a pilot ejecting from an aircraft the canopy is released so that he can be ejected from the body of the aircraft.

Electric's
The Motor is fitted to the Mount with 2 socket screws and don't forget the Threadlock. Choose the holes so that the wires from the Motor do not cross the slot used for Motor adjustment. On the standard Motor that came with the kit you should use the 13 Tooth Pinion, this is attached to the Motor Shaft with the set screw provided, Threadlock is a must for this screw.
Adjust so that the top of the Pinion is 16mm from the Motor Mount Plate use 2 socket screws to attach the Motor and Mount to the Main Frame. Adjust the Gear mesh and secure the Mount on the Chassis, the Gear mesh can be seen from the bottom of the Baseplate. However I kept the Motor out of mesh for testing the ESC etc.

Servo's
Remove the Servo Arms before attaching the Linkage Balls, the Balls should be 12.5mm from the centre of the Servo Arms. Secure the Servo's to the Servo Trays and attach the Servo Arms temporarily without the fixing screws as they will need to be centred during the setup phase. For the Rudder Servo mount the Linkage Ball at 10.5mm unless your Gyro Manual says otherwise. Fix the Servo to the 2 Mounting Brackets on the Tail Boom. Attach 2 Ball Links to the Tail Linkage Rod and fit the Rod into the 2 Rod Guides on the Tail Boom. Push the Ball Link Ends onto the Servo Arm and Tail Pitch Lever respectively.
NOTE
My chosen Servo's did not come with fixing screws so it is wise to make sure your Servo's have screws or that you can provide them from your spares box.

RX and Gyro
Attach the RX and Gyro to the Main Frame with the double sided tape provided and positioned as per manual. Insert the Antenna Tube and fix it with the rubber tube pieces provided. Then thread the Ariel Wire through, I wrapped the excess wire around the outside of the Ariel Tube and secured with Heatshrink Tubing.

ESC (Speed Controller)
The ESC is fitted below the Battery Tray, I used a small elastic band to secure it via the 2 lugs moulded on the Tray. This method allows for free airflow to cool the ESC. Plug the 3 Motor Wires into the ESC observing the color coding.
NOTE
Because I am using Align Batteries I changed the 4mm connectors that attach the Battery to the ESC to 3mm.

Battery
The Battery is fitted to the Battery Tray using the long elastic strap provided. The Battery Holder (small L shaped bracket) is fitted to the Battery Tray to ensure the Battery is always in the same position so as to achieve correct C of G. This can be altered up and down to accomodate different size of Battery. Remember to check C of G with the Body fitted.

Set-Up
The Radio needs to be set-up for ECCPM Mixing, you should refer to the Mini Titan Manual and you TX Handbook for this. I use the Futaba 7CP TX and below are the settings that I used with this computer radio for basic hovering and FF.
Swash Type HR3
Swash Settings
AIL........-70
ELE........+70
PIT........-50
Reverse
CH3 and CH6
Revo Mix
INH
TH-CV (N)
1 = 0
2 = 35%
3 = 60%
4 = 85%
5 = 100%
PI-CV (N)
P1 =35%
P2 = 45%
P3 =55%
P4 = 83%
P5 = 100%

With the TX working the Serv's correctly we move on to the mechanical set up.All the subtrims should be set to 0%, all external trims should be zero'ed and both sticks centred. To prevent the Motor from turning disconnect any 2 of the 3 Motor Leads. Turn on the TX and connect the Battery, reposition the Servo Arms at 90% to the Main Shaft (horizontal), and fit with the screws provided. Any Servo Arms that cannot be made horizontal should be made so using the subtrim within the TX.
The Swashplate should be level at 90deg to the Mainshaft, if not adjust any of the 3 Linkrods to make it so. The next step is to adjust blade pitch at centre stick, I have mine set to 0 pitch at centre stick, +10 at top, -4 at bottom but new beginners may prefer centre stick to be set to + 5.5 which is the approx hover pitch for this heli.
NOTE
If you do set your centre stick to hover pitch totally ignore my throttle and pitch curve settings.

Rudder
If using a H.H/Standard Rate Gyro switch it to Standard Rate Mode. With Rudder Stick centred attach Rudder Servo Arm with screw provided so that the arm is vertical (90 Deg to Tail Boom), With the Servo Bracket loose move Servo up or down the Boom to give 8 Deg approx positive pitch to Tail Blades also make sure the Rod is parallel to the Tail Boom and there is no binding whatsoever.

Motor/ESC
Disconect the Battery and return the Throttle Stick on TX to Low Position and the Throttle Trim to minimum, connect all the Motor Wires to the ESC, engage Motor to Main Gear, adjust mesh so as not to bind and tighten down the Motor Plate. With the Main Blades removed and TX turned on reconnect the Battery. If you dont hear the start up bleeps of the ESC disconnect the Battery and reverse the Throttle Chanel within the TX set-up.
Reconnect the Battery and after the tones are heard slowely advance the Throttle so the Motor starts to turn. Make sure the Head is spinning CW and the Tail Blades are spinning CW when viewed from the Left Hand side ot the helicopter. Lower the Throttle Stick, disconnect the Battery and refit the Main Blades. The heli is now ready for a test flight.
NOTE
This is the starting point, the build is complete but settings need to be altered to suit an indivuals flying experience or style. For instance I set the Linkage Balls to the Inner Flybar Control Lever because I thought as I was not flying 3D it would be best but after a test flight I found that it did not suit my flying style at all so I have now put the Link Balls to the outer hole.